
Chef Kevin Stender is the owner of Top Notch Restaurant on Madison's Park Avenue. (Photo by John Bell)
By Jamie Duffy
Special to MadisonChatham This Week
Chef Kevin Stender, the owner of Top Notch restaurant on Madison's Park Avenue, feels equally at home whipping up a jagerschnitzel as he does making homemade pasta Alfredo with shrimp or scallops.
Both are signature dishes at his German-Italian restaurant, and that's reflective of the ancestry of its owner. Stender, 36, grew up in North Caldwell, the son of a German master chef and a Neapolitan mother. Needless to say, the cooking was varied and for Stender, inspiring.
After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, Stender trained in Naples and other European cities. The chef was "some guy named Jean Paul," but what stayed with Stender was the chef's emphasis on teaching "the whole romance of food," a subject that wasn't covered stateside.
He then worked as the chef at Carousel restaurant on Bloomfield Avenue in Montclair. About 10 years ago, when he started looking for his own establishment, a real estate agent friend found him an empty building, and that's where he created Top Notch 10.
The restaurant, with its latticed decor, is a favorite spot for the ladies who lunch. They get an excellent meal with the $10.95 prix fixe menu that includes soup or salad with the main course. For those who are tightening their belts in this economy but still want a restaurant experience, there is the four-course early-bird special, served from 4:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. and priced at $13.95. A night out can cost $20 to $35 a person, and you bring your own alcoholic beverage.
Toni Raimo of Sparta is a regular customer who often dines at Top Notch with her group of "lady friends." She likes the veal Gemini, veal topped with mozzarella, shrimp and scallops. A German friend "always has the sauerbraten, which she loves." They all like the ambience, the varied menu and the good value. "The whole package is good there."
On Fridays, singer Mark Fabian livens up the nights with songs from the days of Frank Sinatra, Tony Bennett and Englebert Humperdinck.
"People were clapping," and a couple of people got up and danced, Raimo said. "They had a good time."
When Stender takes the day off, he often spends it with his father, Hans. They may browse the cookbook aisle in a bookstore, passing a few hours that way, a habit that can bring a new special to the menu.
"What I like about this, it doesn't strangle you to do anything. I can put Yugoslavian fare on the menu. I like the idea of not being typed as a one-ethnic restaurant."
Oktoberfest draws so many people, "you can't get in the door," says Stender. Typically, he offers a five-course meal that includes a potato pancake, jagerschnitzel or wienerschnitzel (breaded veal with a fried egg on top), a three-wurst platter and a cucumber salad.
Stender also has a few desserts he makes on his own: cheesecake, brownies, apple strudel and a creme brulee.
When he's not at his own restaurant, he enjoys dining out at the Cheesecake Factory at the Paramus Mall where he says drinks are great. But then so is the cheesecake. Another inspiration.
TOP NOTCH RESTAURANT
ADDRESS: 4 Park Ave., Madison
TELEPHONE NUMBER: 973-660-9222
HOURS: Lunch, 11:30 to 2:30 Monday to Sunday; early bird, 4:30 to 6 p.m.; dinner, 4:30 to 10 p.m.
CUISINE: German and Italian
LIQUOR: BYOB
PAYMENT: Visa, Master Card, American Express
PRICE RANGE: Lunch, three-course special, $10.95; dinner, early bird, four courses, $13.95; dinner starters, $5.95 to $10.95; entrees, $15 to $20; desserts, $4; specials, $13.95 to $24.95
RESERVATIONS: Highly recommended on weekends
DRESS: Smart casual
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